“Undirected strolls on historic black and white cobblestone resulted in pristine mobile seats to the free, lively theatre of everyday city life. Chestnuts were roasted by heavy-set tobacco enthusiasts. Plates of sardines drizzled in oil twirled and then lowered onto checkered tablecloths. Buildings donning tiles of the brightest hues led us down steep alleyways.” (Photo by Varak Babian).